🔗 Share this article

When curating a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, nestled prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” states a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small shop achieving such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its former character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

It is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. As the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning outside its own premises. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic honour.