The City of Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Fruit in Urban Spaces
Each 20 minutes or so, an ageing diesel-powered train arrives at a graffiti-covered stop. Close by, a law enforcement alarm cuts through the almost continuous traffic drone. Daily travelers rush by falling apart, ivy-draped garden fences as storm clouds form.
It is perhaps the last place you expect to find a perfectly formed vineyard. However one local grower has cultivated four dozen established plants heavy with round mauve grapes on a rambling allotment sandwiched between a line of 1930s houses and a commuter railway just above the city downtown.
"I've noticed people hiding heroin or whatever in those bushes," states the grower. "But you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your vines."
The cameraman, forty-six, a filmmaker who also has a kombucha drinks business, is among several urban winemaker. He's pulled together a loose collective of cultivators who make vintage from several discreet urban vineyards nestled in private yards and allotments throughout Bristol. It is too clandestine to possess an formal title so far, but the group's messaging chat is named Grape Expectations.
Urban Wine Gardens Across the World
So far, the grower's plot is the sole location registered in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming global directory, which features more famous city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred plants on the slopes of the French capital's historic artistic district neighbourhood and over three thousand vines with views of and within the Italian city. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the forefront of a initiative re-establishing urban grape cultivation in historic wine-producing nations, but has discovered them all over the globe, including urban centers in Japan, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.
"Vineyards assist cities stay more eco-friendly and more diverse. They protect open space from development by creating long-term, productive farming plots within cities," explains the association's president.
Similar to other vintages, those produced in urban areas are a result of the earth the vines thrive in, the vagaries of the weather and the people who tend the fruit. "Each vintage represents the charm, local spirit, environment and heritage of a city," notes the president.
Mystery Eastern European Grapes
Returning to Bristol, the grower is in a race against time to gather the vines he grew from a plant abandoned in his allotment by a Eastern European household. If the precipitation arrives, then the birds may take advantage to attack again. "Here we have the mystery Polish grape," he comments, as he cleans damaged and rotten berries from the glistering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain what variety they are, but they're definitely hardy. Unlike premium grapes – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and other famous European varieties – you need not spray them with chemicals ... this could be a unique cultivar that was bred by the Soviets."
Collective Efforts Across the City
Additional participants of the group are also making the most of bright periods between showers of autumn rain. At a rooftop garden with views of Bristol's shimmering harbour, where historic trading ships once floated with barrels of wine from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is harvesting her rondo grapes from approximately 50 vines. "I adore the aroma of the grapevines. It is so evocative," she says, pausing with a container of fruit resting on her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of southern France when you open the vehicle windows on vacation."
Grant, 52, who has devoted more than two decades working for charitable groups in conflict zones, unexpectedly inherited the vineyard when she moved back to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her family in 2018. She felt an overwhelming duty to maintain the vines in the yard of their new home. "This plot has previously endured multiple proprietors," she explains. "I deeply appreciate the idea of environmental care – of handing this down to future caretakers so they keep cultivating from this land."
Terraced Vineyards and Traditional Winemaking
Nearby, the remaining cultivators of the group are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. One filmmaker has cultivated over 150 plants situated on ledges in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the muddy local waterway. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she says, gesturing towards the interwoven grape garden. "They can't believe they are viewing rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."
Currently, Scofield, 60, is picking bunches of deep violet dark berries from rows of plants slung across the cliff-side with the help of her child, her family member. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to streaming service's nature programming and BBC Two's Gardeners' World, was inspired to cultivate vines after seeing her neighbor's grapevines. She has learned that amateurs can make interesting, enjoyable natural wine, which can command prices of upwards of seven pounds a serving in the increasing quantity of wine bars specialising in minimal-intervention wines. "It's just deeply rewarding that you can actually make quality, traditional vintage," she says. "It's very fashionable, but really it's resurrecting an traditional method of making wine."
"During foot-stomping the grapes, all the natural microorganisms are released from the skins into the juice," says Scofield, ankle deep in a bucket of tiny stems, seeds and crimson juice. "That's how vintages were made traditionally, but industrial wineries introduce sulphur [dioxide] to kill the wild yeast and then add a lab-grown culture."
Difficult Environments and Creative Approaches
A few doors down active senior another cultivator, who inspired Scofield to establish her vines, has gathered his companions to harvest white wine varieties from one hundred vines he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. The former teacher, a Lancashire-born physical education instructor who taught at Bristol University developed a passion for wine on regular visits to Europe. But it is a challenge to grow this particular variety in the dampness of the valley, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to produce French-style vintages in this location, which is somewhat ambitious," says Reeve with amusement. "Chardonnay is slow-maturing and particularly vulnerable to mildew."
"I wanted to make Burgundian wines in this environment, which is rather ambitious"
The temperamental Bristol climate is not the sole problem faced by grape cultivators. Reeve has had to erect a fence on